Anselmi-Molina, Carlos M.

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    Development of an operational nearshore wave forecast system for Puerto Rico
    (2011) Anselmi-Molina, Carlos M.; Mercado, Aurelio; College of Arts and Sciences - Sciences; Morell, Julio; Canals-Silander, Miguel F.; Aponte, Nilda; Department of Marine Sciences; Orama-Exclusa, Lionel R.
    An assessment of coastal information needs in Puerto Rico and the United States Virgin Islands identified real time wave data and improved wave forecasts as essential for supporting nearshore operations in the region. Following deployment of operational wave measuring buoys off the north, south and west coasts of the Puerto Rico-Virgin Islands archipelago, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model was implemented with the goal of providing for data needs in areas not well represented by the buoys as well as for filling the nearshore gap not addressed by the operational NOAA Multi-grid WAVEWATCH III (NMWW3) forecast. Two model setups were implemented in the experimental mode: a) Full-SWAN, consisted of three SWAN computational grids: a low-resolution grid, an intermediate grid and a high-resolution grids, and b) a nesting between NMWW3 and SWAN. NMWW3 two-dimensional spectral buoys, provided by NCEP Marine Modeling and Analysis Branch Operational Products (NCEP-MMAB), were located around Puerto Rico and the US-VI. SWAN validation results show good agreement between the observed and the modeled wave field for the north and west coasts. Results for the Caribbean (south) coast highlight the need for more accurate wind products in order to properly resolve the wind-driven wave field dominating this area.